Chamela and Tenecatita

Chamela turns out to be a quiet, typical Mexican town, one paved road, several small tiendas, (stores) and lots of locals hanging out at the beach-side palapas on the weekend to cool off in the surf.  Well, not exactly surf, but really close, as our dinghy landings were a little wet.  It was great to see that the locals were enjoying their beaches as much as the gringos.  Many soccer games, kite flying, sand castle building and picnicking were occurring during the Sunday afternoon at the beach.  We have noticed that at many of the beaches the boat people or yates as we are called are in the minority.  To me, this shows that Mexico's economy has slowly been crawling back as the locals seem to take days off regularly to enjoy themselves at the beach, or at festivals. 
  We walked through town on the one paved road, bought some fresh produce for dinner, and headed back to the boat.  The next day we motored over to the little islands nearby, around 2.5 miles.  We anchored at Isla Cocina for the day, and dinghied to the beach to see the pelicans nesting in the cactus.  Their chicks are so cute, totally white and gangly, a lot like Woody.  After a quick walk on the little beach, we pushed off through the small waves to circumnavigate the island.  Not a huge deal, but it was open ocean swells as we rounded the outside cliffs and dodged back through rocky outcroppings to get back to the Honcho.  Very exciting of course, as Leif decided to make it an E ticket ride and cut through a white water area.  After such excitement, we could only highlight it with a quick dip for a bath off the stern.  I do miss the showers at La Cruz, but the scenery is spectacular. 
   The next morning we were up early, 8:30, and set sail by 10, headed for Tenecatita.  The wind was light in the beginning, but filled in and within an hour or so we had 15 kts, then 20's.  We hit 10 knots on the knot meter, which was a first for us on this boat.  Really fun to surf along the swells.  At around 5 p.m. we were inside Tenecatita Bay, and found the anchorage.  This is because it's rather hidden around a corner and if you don't come all the way in, you won't see it.  It was great fun to be at sea, surfing along so quickly, yet it's very nice to be at anchor at night and able to rest without having to keep a watch constantly.  We do keep an anchor watch, but it's much more relaxed than when we're sailing, then it's 3 hours on 3 off.  And cooking is a lot easier when the stove isn't swinging in front of me.  I have learned what to cook to make life easier under way, and what to leave until later.  Slicing onions under sail can be interesting, with them rolling off the cutting board and launching themselves into the air.  Tenecatita doesn't have the great wifi that Chamela had, but, who knows, maybe there's a Starbucks here?  We'll take the dinghy tomorrow to the other side of the bay to see what's there.  I have these bizarre cravings for a Chart House Restaurant.  Don't think there's one here though?   

Chamela, tubas, winds

It has finally happened, we tore ourselves away from La Cruz. Honcho sailed out at 3:45 p.m. Thursday, heading to Chamela, a little island filled harbor 90 miles south of us. The winds were light to start, then as we rounded cabo Corrientes it picked up to 25 kts. for a few hours. We sailed along, dropped the jib, and of course the wind then dropped. In the a.m. there were whales all around, fortunately not overly close to us. The bay is rimmed by a small village. We hope to get to shore tomorrow, as today we both took a nap as it had been a long night of watches. I saw several meteors, it's great to see the night sky unobstructed. The southern cross is showing as well.
I tried fishing from the boat today, caught a spotted porcupine fish, and some other small thing that got snagged through it's eyeball.
It's not like La Cruz here, no fresh baked pies on the docks, or long showers. But, the water is a bit warmer, and swimming is possible. All afternoon the palapa had music playing, some band with a tuba as the prime instrument. I never thought of tubas or accordions as a main instrument until Mexico.

Miraflores Locks and the Trip Home to La Cruz

Our first hours here were filled with hopping a cab out to the Amador causeway, to see the myriad of ships and smaller boats waiting their turn to pass through the canal.  As it turned out, we were amazed that so many were waiting as the locks were not that busy. 
  The next day once again a cab ride, but to the Miraflores Locks Museum and viewing area.  The museum is well worth the admission fee, giving a thorough account of the history of the locks from inception, including the problems with disease, mosquitoes, and the terrain itself.  The viewing areas are on several different levels which provide a great view of the ships transiting the locks.  We were lucky enough to see two ships go through, as they only have ships during certain hours each morning and then again in the afternoon.  It appeared that during the off hours they perform maintenance on the locks and allow smaller vessels to pass through.  We were fortunate enough to see a lone catamaran go through, giving us a good feel as to what it would be like for us in the future.  They had four line handlers on the boat, and two on the locks tying them off and walking them along as the water rose and fell.  The boat only had fenders, which was interesting as we had been told of having to rent tires for the sides as fenders.  We had an elegant lunch at the high end restaurant, giving a great view of the passing catamaran.  Leif truly enjoyed his day, as did I, but it was more of a "guy thing" with all of the locomotives pulling the ships, and reading in the museum all about the types of machines used to move dirt. 
   Our departure day came quickly, and we were off to the airport for our flights back to Puerto Vallarta.  All went well this time, even though our last flight wasn't listed on the boards until 15 minutes prior to take-off, and we had no idea to which gate we needed to run, as they don't know until the plane arrives.  As it turned out, they had cancelled our flight, but decided later to find a plane for us...  We arrived in P.V. around 7 p.m. tired and happy to be back home.  The Honcho was in great shape after two weeks, only a little dirty.  The air was cool, crisp and slightly humid, not like Bocas.  Kind of a relief.  In the next few days we are provisioning for our trip south, and putting Honcho back together again after taking everything from the outside and putting it inside for our trip to Bocas. 

   I feel pretty much the same as I have throughout the trip, my stiffness is steady, which is a good thing I guess.  The only thing is that I have caught a bit of a cold, which isn't great, but hopefully the juice plus will do it's thing and I'll get over it quickly.  Having a lack of immune system is a bit trying when riding on planes filled with hacking people and coughing children.   

Red Frog Marina, Bocas del Toros

Ok, up late, Liz had mimosas ready for the tired travellers. That of course sets the tone for the day. We walked to the "far" side of the island, about a 5 min. walk for some body surfing. The beach was beautiful, palm trees, beach bar in a modern thatched hut, and long sand beach. As it turns out, waves are a rare commodity in this part of the Caribbean, and Bocas is known as a surf spot. We got our fill of waves, then went to the Punta Lava bar for some refreshments. Cute bar, burgers and cheap drinks. But a one million dollar view.
Today we took a cruise to Rana Azul, or the dark lands. It is called this as it's faced away from the sun, and somewhat dark. The trip was again lovely, traveling through the many islands and seeing thatched huts and nice houses along the way. We ended up at the Rana Azul restaurant, which is only open two days a week. It is open-air, with an air rifle to shoot, ring game, and killer mojitos, oh yes, also a karaoke box, much to our embarrassment. Leif and Craig started off the singing, followed by me, and then we noticed that we were the only ones left in he place. They did have the greatest stone fire pizzas, and beef steak dinners.
Next was a trip to Starfish beach, which stands up to it's name. We anchored, swam ashore and snorkeled to see the beautiful starfish and fish. For lunch we drove the dinghy to Yaris Noris, a restaurant on the other side of the island. Bad service, and bad food, not a place to recommend. But, cute bobble heads for Mexican train. We play nightly, and Liz is the queen.
Next day we left for Bocas Marina Anchorage, which amazingly enough had the best snorkeling of the trip. We also went in for some Bocas burgers at Calypso Cantina run by Darin and Dylan, who have circumnavigated.
We spent the morning snorkeling, then off to the Pickeled Parrot and some interesting chat with George, the owner. It's a dinghy up bar and restaurant out near the surf break. Leif and I went for a walk around the corner and found a great beach, pier, and lush mangroves. It pays to get away from the crowd.
Next day, off to Red Frog marina, home for Craig and Liz. The weather has been spotty, lots of rain,yet,enough sun to keep it fun. We went body surfing, hiking and had a dock party with all the yaties. Every night we play Mexican train, it's a highlight, if not a requirement.

   I can't believe it's time to leave already, we have been quite happy, this life of cruising isn't half bad!  But, we are ready to see the Panama Canal, our last big adventure on our way home.  The trip home was rather uneventful so far, we actually caught a plane from Bocas to Panama City, arrived mid-day and had time for a trip out to the canal zone and see all of the ships waiting for the locks.  Hundred or so anchored out, not including all of the smaller yachts waiting as well.  Oh yes, we splurged and stayed at the Marriott, with a tub for me, and internet for all.  It was an expensive treat, but worth it.  Tomorrow the Mirafloras Locks

Finally, Bocas del Toros, Panama

I left off at the Best Western hotel in David.  We got up extra early determined to make it to Bocas, as we don't have bus reservations and it's New Year's Eve, and everyone stops early, like noon, to celebrate.  We decided to hire another taxi, and after a really interesting, fun, dangerous, and enlightening ride through the cattle country, then rain forest, then jungle, and finally down to Almirante for a water taxi to Bocas, which is an island.  It's amazing how poor the people are here, yet nicely dressed, and most are standing by the road waiting for the local buses to ???  The "houses" are just wood shacks, without windows, doors, and the people are sitting on the front porches, waving at flies. 
   When we arrive at Almirante, we are surrounded by water taxi guys pushing us towards their taxi instead of others.  We had one recommended, so we walk away and get in line for an 11:30 boat to Bocas.  Around 11:00 a boat arrives and everyone dashes and jumps in, except us, and we wait for our names to be called, then cram in.  There were about 30 people in this panga with curtains, and it was definitely overloaded, should have taken maybe 16.  So, thinking, I can always swim, off we went.  As we arrived 20 minutes later in Bocas, there was Craig to greet us as we walked off the dock.  I was so happy to finally see him, hugs all around.  Liz was waiting next door at Pirates Bar, so we all sat down for a celebratory beer.  Now the story begins about the actual trip here in Bocas.
   Liz and Craig's catamaran, a Leopard 42, owners version, is docked in Red Frog Marina, a short water taxi ride away.  There are many many islands here, and one needs a chart to figure out where on earth you are. They all look similar, lots of palm trees, thatched huts, houses, boats, pangas, mangroves, and oh yes, definitely mosquitoes and no see ums.
   Liz is an amazing cook, and does more in a boat galley than I have ever done in my gourmet kitchen at home.  We hit the sack early, exhausted from the stress of travel and glad to be finally at our new home. 
 

Trip to Bocas del Toro

We decided to take a vacation from our vacation to visit our friends Craig & Liz on their boat in Bocas. So, we hopped a plane to Mexico City,oh wait, it was delayed for 1 hour and we missed our connection to Panama City,Panama. Perhaps it was because the ex-president of Mexico, Vincente Fox got off the plane that we were getting on, and was wisked away by fed. Police. So,we got a free night in Mex. city courtesy of AeroMexico. That occurred after walking the length of the airport three or more times trying to get them to give us a voucher,which they had assured us we would get. At that point,we were quite tired and ready for a nights sleep. Not to happen on the hardest bed I've ever been on. Forgot to mention all of the machine gun toting military guys everywhere in the airports.
Ok,up early, off to the airport for our "confirmed" flight on Copa Air. After waiting in line, and for the agents to reissue our tickets, 1.5 hours later, we were off to...the gate! Finally on the flight,it landed in Panama City, and too late to catch a bus to Bocas, so off to a hotel. This hotel was the oddest so far, nice on first appearance, clean, newish, really not bad. Then we read the rules. No bare feet,or bare chests in hallways. No intimidating others with psychic threats, including the staff. No loud noises. (When Leif sneezes it scares me to death, we thought the hotel police would haul him away.) Also,the beds have been so hard one clunks when sitting on them, and one overhead light only, and one outlet to charge our pad,computer,etc. We laughed so hard when we got here, must be exhausted.
Ok, day three once again up early, no breakfast and off to the airport for a flight to Bocas. No deal, all booked until Jan. 4. Off from there to the bus terminal. We were told the buses were great,t.v.,reclining seats, totally deluxe. Well,the line was at least a thousand people, snaking through a mall like fashion island,no kidding. So... Taxi! Oh boy, $350.
U.S. To drive us to Bocas. Ok. At least we'll be there tonight. We hop in and drive. But, it turns out the driver doesn't know anywhere except Panama City, and he gets us out and into the absolutely beautiful countryside on our way before he enlightens us. As we pass David, pronounced dahveeed, 7 hours later we finally got to call Liz & Craig, who by now probably think we're on a plane. They say we still have 4 hours more and won't make it today, & there's no hotels near the water taxi's in Adalanto. Forgot to mention our driver missed the turnoff and we backtracked 30 min to the turnoff. Back to David for the night in the Best Western...thank heavens, a soft bed. Maybe tomorrow?  Ok, the Best Western was great, except for no water pressure or hot water.  I'll finish this later, but... we did make it and have been in Bocas with Craig and Liz finally.We have not had internet.