Isla Partida and Ensenada Grande, Los Gatos, Agua Verde, Puerto Escondido, Loreto, San Juanico

We left La Paz around noon and arrived at Ensenada Grande at 5:00 p.m. It was very windy as we arrived, of course on the nose.  The red cliffs here look like the rock melted and ran over the edge, very picturesque.

Ensenada Grande cliffs dripping into the water.

  Water temperature is 76 in the afternoon, rising from 74.3 in the morning.  It is interesting how the temperature varies during the day.  We anchored in with a couple of other boats that we know: Wavelength, and Beaumaris.  There is a blue footed booby rookery around the corner from our anchorage, and we took the dinghy over for a look.  There were no nests, too late in the season, but we did see several birds hanging out on the cliff sides.  They have a wingspan of 4’-5’, feed on fish and lay 2-3 eggs at a time.  Both parents participate in incubating the eggs for approximately 45 days.  The nests are placed on the ground, and they use their feet to warm the eggs rather than laying on them.  I think they are so unique looking with their bright blue feet, and it appears that their numbers are growing from the last time we were here.

Blue Footed Booby near Ensenada Grande.

 

   The coromuel winds blew all night at around 22 knots, and we decided to head across the channel to San Evaristo.  Last trip we saw lots of wild burros here, but this year none were to be seen.  We did see evidence that they are around, just hiding out I guess.  This time we were underwhelmed with the anchorage, so we left for Puerto Los Gatos.

   Los Gatos has amazingly smooth red rock cliffs.  We hiked ashore a bit, climbing up the cliffs and walking the beach.  There were signs of coyotes up in a wash, and lots of shells from fishermen cleaning oysters.  One day here was also enough for now, headed out to Agua Verde. 

   Agua Verde had many campers who were enjoying Semana Sante at the beach.  It is a tradition for many families to spend holidays at the beach, camped out with friends.  They do know how to party, bringing tents, boom boxes, grills, all sorts of water toys, and lots of beer.  As a cruiser, it can be a little noisy when we get used to having the beach to ourselves.  But, it is their country after all! 

One of many encampments on the beach near Agua Verde.

   We decided to head to Puerto Escondido which had internet, laundry, a tienda, and restaurant.  I say “had” because this year it was basically shut down.  We arrived all excited to have some modern conveniences and a mooring, but found only the laundry was still open.  Well, that wasn't what we had in mind, so we left early the next day for Loreto.  It seems that we are on the move a lot this trip, as the water hasn't been overly warm or clear.  Things are getting better though, the temperature is rising a bit. 

   Arriving off the small marina near Loreto, we dropped anchor and got cell service for the afternoon.  This is where we got the sad news that our sweet dog Casey has a large tumor and her condition is unknown at this time.  We don’t have phone service, so I can’t talk to the vet yet.

Casey in her favorite spot, right under foot.  

   We spent the night at anchor and decided to leave to Bahia Concepcion early in the a.m.  This was a tough decision as there is no internet or phone service there, but we were not safe anchoring where we were as it is an open beachfront, not a cove.  If the winds came up, we’d be in trouble.  It would be a two day trip, stopping at San Juanico for a night.

Touching down after a two foot flight, while mom is unimpressed.

 

   San Juanico is another beautiful spot, blah blah, cool rock formations, clear water, lots of interesting birds all around.  We saw two Osprey nests perched high up on pinnacles, with the young birds testing their wings by lifting off about two feet into the air then settling back down. 

Our first and probably last Dorado.

On our way up the Baja, we trolled daily for fish.  Somewhere near San Evaristo we managed to catch a large bull Dorado.  He was bright yellow, and fought hard to keep from becoming our dinner.  I always feel a little sad when we kill a fish, but this one was truly a prize.  We had Dorado for four nights, including this night in San Juanico.  It is my favorite fish, and last trip we were skunked on catching any. 

He's already losing his vibrant color.

The winds here blew hard all day and night, it seemed like it funneled through the nearby mountains.  As we left the next day, the winds dropped off and we had to motor our way into Bahia Concepcion.